D03 – Ocean Waves
This course aims to cover observing, describing and analysing ocean surface waves for offshore and coastal engineering, moving from wave measurements and statistical descriptions to spectral methods, linear wave theory, wind-wave generation and nearshore wave transformation.
£299.00
20 hours
Focused, self-paced learning designed to fit around professional schedules.
Online, self-paced
Study online at a pace that fits your schedule.
9 sections
Structured curriculum sections.
English
Language of instruction for this course.
38 lessons
Focused lessons organised into a clear learning path.
Course overview
Designed for: engineering graduates looking for refresher courses in niche expert areas.
Entry requirements: an engineering degree or equivalent experience, plus a working knowledge of calculus, basic statistics and fluid mechanics.
What you will learn
Identify the main methods used to observe ocean waves and explain what each method measures.
Compute key short-term wave statistics, including significant wave height and exceedance probabilities.
Interpret the variance density spectrum and explain when it provides a complete description of a sea state.
Estimate and critique a wave spectrum from a sampled surface-elevation record.
Apply linear wave theory to relate surface elevation to dispersion, pressure, and particle motion.
Evaluate wave-generation conditions and coastal transformation processes for engineering use.
Skills and knowledge
Wave observation
Short-term statistics
Variance spectrum
Spectral analysis
Linear wave theory
Wave generation
Coastal transformation
Offshore engineering
Course curriculum
Introduction
1.1 Welcome
Observing Ocean Waves
2.1 Why Observe Waves?
2.2 Point Measurements
2.3 Satellite Altimetry
2.4 From Traces to Statistics
2.5 Quiz 1
Short-Term Wave Statistics
3.1 Zero-Crossing Waves
3.2 Rayleigh Wave Heights
3.3 Significant Wave Height
3.4 Short-Term Extremes
3.5 Quiz 2
Variance Density Spectrum
4.1 Why a Spectrum?
4.2 Defining S(f)
4.3 Complete Description Conditions
4.4 Spectral Moments and Crossings
4.5 Quiz 3
Spectral Analysis of Records
5.1 Digitising the Record
5.2 FFT and Resolution Limits
5.3 Aliasing and Leakage
5.4 Smoothing and Reliability
5.5 Quiz 4
Linear Wave Theory
6.1 Linearising the Problem
6.2 Dispersion and Velocities
6.3 Pressure and Kinematics
6.4 Surface Tension and Extremes
6.5 Quiz 5
Wave Generation and Spectra
7.1 Wind Input and Dissipation
7.2 Growth Limits
7.3 PM and JONSWAP
7.4 Swell and Interactions
7.5 Quiz 6
Coastal Wave Transformation
8.1 Shoaling Effects
8.2 Refraction and Wave Rays
8.3 Diffraction and Reflection
8.4 Radiation Stress
8.5 Worked Nearshore Example
8.6 Quiz 7
Summary
9.1 Key Takeaways
Ready to enrol?
£299.00